| Our trying stay in Krabi had worn down our spirits a bit, but Ko Phi Phi recharged us. In fact, though we were both tired and weak when we landed on Phi Phi, we decided to climb to the Phi Phi "Viewpoint" for perspective before the sun fell. The climb was arduous with steep steps and twisting paths for 1,000 vertical feet. Sweat poured from my pores as I charged upward; with each deep breath I felt stronger, with each pained step I was another step removed from the sickness that kept us both down in Krabi. Once at the top, the dumbell-shaped island gained focus and proved awe-inspiring. All remnants of any exhaustion was gone. Three British girls soak in the sight from the height as the light fades to night. |
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| Much like another Utopian island much closer to home, Ko Phi Phi is a land without cars. The best way to get around, other than to hike, climb or swim, is to hop in of the many convenient water taxis. For about a buck, these simple but efficient (and fun) longboats would whisk you to any beach on the island. Above, Beth and I are ferried to Long Beach, at the east end of the island. Below, a handful of locals play a game of pickup football while their anchored long boats await passengers. |
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A short hike through the island from Long Beach brings you to an isolated, largely undiscovered corner of Ko Phi Phi. The beach, called Loh Moodee, is ideal for quiet, privacy, or space to throw the Frisbee. Both photos below were taken from there, at the beach that sounded depressed ("Low Moody"). The image of the Frisbee below can be clicked to see a video of us playing disc on the beach. |
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We weren't the only ones playing games on Phi Phi. Below, two common Thai sports are captured on video, a type of volleyball without the use of hands and the legendary Thai boxing. I was hypnotized by the talent of the volleyball players as they rallied for minutes using their feet, knees, elbows, shoulders, and heads. The clip I have is relatively short, unfortunately. As for the Thai boxing, it was insane. Beth and I got up close at the misleading Reggae Bar, which played Metallica and featured the most violent sport I've ever witnessed. The boxers attacked each other viciously with brutal shots to the head and devastating kicks to the kidneys. The first two matches we saw featured painful knockouts, at which point we had to leave the bar. It was not quite in the spirit of Bob Marley. Click either picture below for a quick snippet of the sport. |
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Some folks overheard us joking about the Reggae Bar, and they recommended a much calmer atmosphere in a bar more true to its name: the Hippie Bar on the beach. I sat at the bar and immediately began chatting with the older Brit to my right. He went by the name "Sharkie" and bragged about some sexual conquests earlier in the week. Tonight, though, he had been stood up. After Sharkie asked me my name (thrice), he responded, "Russell? All your friends must call you Jack then." Perplexed, I asked him to explain his reasoning. "Like the dog, a Jack Russell." I told him that no, no one had ever, ever called me Jack before--but that he was welcome to if he wanted. Later when I made my way to the beach area of the bar, I shared a session with some fellow travelers while fire throwers enchanted the crowd from the edge of the surf. I struck up conversation with Dan, another Brit in Phi Phi, and I asked him how many kilometers he lived from London; he kindly reminded me that the British don't know kilometers--they use miles. |
| At one point Dan borrowed my camera to take the picture at right. That
photo is totally non-manipulated; it's as he took it that night. He had
the same camera I did, and he taught me a new trick on it. After 3+ years and 2,500+ photographs I learned a new skill with the Elph. I guess an old Jack Russell can learn some new tricks.  |
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Dan and I got into a deep, philosophical conversation about the events that had landed us in paradise on that evening. We shared eerily identical beliefs on what's important in life (including a digital Elph and a 175-gram Frisbee) and agreed that it's not necessary to be blessed with a particular talent to be successful, happy, and content. "There is a saying in America," I explained, "called Jack of all trades... " Dan continued, "Master of none," though he later added he's not so sure about the "Jack of all trades" part either. Still, being "Jack of most trades" is still pretty decent, as is even being "Jack of some trades." By the end of that night, I had re-fallen in love with the music of Tracy Chapman, unintentionally performed a back flip off the beach hut (and unsuccessfully tried to play it off), blown the minds of fellow Frisbee fans with my glow-in-the-dark Fire Flyer, and earned the first nickname of my entire life: Jack. The beaches on Ko Phi Phi were nothing short of spectacular. Each one had its own character; Loh Dalam, below, faced due north in a shallow lagoon that simply sparkled. Beth and I spent our last day here reading, exploring, playing gammon, tossing the disc, relishing the view and enjoying the fresh fruit smoothies from nearby stands. |
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The photo below was taken on the ferry from Ko Phi Phi, with the Thai flag on the forefront. This ride began our long journey home; for the first time we were heading north and back toward the east. We still had adventures ahead of us, but we both knew nothing would quite top the special days we spent recuperating our health and spirit in Ko Phi Phi. I vowed to return. |
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Siem Reap (Angkor Wat), Cambodia Rai Lei (Krabi), Southern Thailand Beach |
